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This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of fall. This Northwest Indian stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chili and palm sugar gives it a lovely flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the strata of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture component in advance and assemble all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Melt the ghee in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then stir in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a low heat, blend in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then fry for three minutes. Add the stock or water, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with coriander, then remove from the stove.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay, cardamom pods and salt. Heat to boiling, cook for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

For assembling the biryani, put a spoonful of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Ladle in half the spiced vegetables, then layer with half the rice. Add half the saffron infusion, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then arrange the leftover grains. Top with the remaining clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so all the flavours soak into the grains. Take out of the oven, leave to rest, keeping covered, for several minutes, then lift off the lid and present with raita and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Hindi term "pickling style" describes seasoning a preparation using preserving spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel, fenugreek, cumin, hing and nigella, but their use extends beyond in pickles. The blend also appears in all manner of curries and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel in a mortar, roughly grind, then reserve. Heat the cooking oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the crushed spices and the hing, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a minute, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour 50ml liquid to the pan, season with seasoning to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, breaking up chunks a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, mix thoroughly and serve warm with flatbreads or leavened bread.